Week 8 and week 9 part 1

 
11 June to 21 June
 
Pelion and Skopelos
 
We continued to enjoy the remoteness of Kastri until it was time to head off to Skopelos to meet up with 'Anma (Kate's Mum).  Even though we could see Skopelos in the distance there were no ferries from where we were so we had to drive back to Volos.  We boarded the ferry and Louis immediately befriended an elderly Greek couple who fed him crisps and biscuits the entire journey.  The boat stopped off in Skiathos and the scene before us as we stood watching form the deck was incredible.  We were all transfixed as people, goods and vehicles were hurriedly rushed on and off the Ferry as the Customs officials screeched their whistles at the traffic to keep them moving.  Zach exclaimed "its just like 'what people do all day?'", referring to the Richard Scarry books the boys have enjoyed reading all holiday.  Zach was remarkably bang on with his description and we all looked on until the doors were closed and the Ferry headed off once more this time to Skopelos and 'Anma waiting on the quayside.  
 

Driving down to Glysteri Beach

It was great to see 'Anma and her friend Carol.  They have visited Skopelos on a number of occasions so were able to introduce us to some fabulous restaurants, bars, beaches and best of all their friends the Cosma Family.  Sula Cosma, family matriarch, insisted that we park our van next to their taverna on Glysteri beach and camp free of charge.   So our camper van is stationed pretty much on "their" beach, half of it in truth is owned by the Monks who stay way up high in the Monastery.  We have only to stagger a few yards for bacon and eggs in the morning, stuffed peppers, fresh fish, salads so fresh and beautifully herbed each lunchtime and piping hot Skopelos pie, a sweet and creamy filled pastry dusted with icing sugar and fresh fruit delivered to the van most evenings. 
 

Sula's Restaurant

Child care is shared by all including the "YaYa and Papoose" of the restaurant - some of the best greek food on the island being served here.  This is an incredible place to stay, the mornings begin often and strangely with the sound of Microsoft Windows on the PC pumping through the restaurant's sound system, soon followed by Greek Music.  Louis and Steve are usually up first and Louis heads immediately to entertain the family around the breakfast table.  After several cups of thick, black coffee, the days work in the restaurant then commences, from cleaning the beach to preparing the tables and Kitchen.  The family work tirelessly late into the night sometimes with only a handful of customers, the season has yet to begin and the restaurant is vast and includes a museum full of family and Greek history about the Glisteri Beach.  This had once been the ship and boat building port from which some pretty impressive ships were built. It did not take Zach long to find his own evidence of the past climbing on the rocks getting his feet into some sticky tar.  As we slowly slipped into to Greek life on Glisteri beach we began to admire the Cosmas family, in truth we began to feel a little guilty to be watching everything unfold, there was so much to be done and yet nothing was too much trouble.  In the evening the family would drive huge tanks of water from the town on the back of their trucks not just for the restaurant but so the tourists could have showers on the beach.  Sula and her husband Georgeo make a formidable team and to think this all began from Sula selling ice creams on the beach to the tourists.  Even Vangelis her son runs a boat daily from the town to ensure even those without transport can enjoy the environment and the fantastic food and fresh fish that is created in the kitchen.  It  must  have taken a lot ingenuity and hard toil and we told even a little luck, as some of the restaurant was made from timbers washed up and carried up on to the beach, after a shipwreck.  
 

Sula with Louis and Co.

We visited other beaches on the island which were stony but almost deserted and the incredibly green sea was always inviting.  We even bumped into Louis's adoptive grandparents from the ferry who were so excited to see him again and with Carol translating we could even have a conversation with them.  Skopelos town is beautiful - situated on a hill rising up from the small port it is made up of lots of narrow streets with really interesting shops and pretty houses.  We even managed a bit of night out without the boys and went to a bar overlooking the whole town and the harbor.

Skopelos Town at night
 
We took a glass bottom boat on a day trip to Alonnisos with the promise of dolphins.  The dolphins never materialized and there was little to see out of the glass bottom but Alonisos was beautiful.  So close to Skopelos but with a very different character, it seemed more remote with less people and development.  It was very green and looked quite manicured.  We had fresh fish in a little taverna on the harbor and visited some stunning beaches before heading home.
 

Zach in Alonnisos

The temperature rose every day and there was little to do in the heat of the afternoon but dip in and out of the sea or collapse in the shade.  The children hardly complained about the heat they just adored even more swimming and were happy to read stories or watch a film in the afternoons.  When we weren't swimming or relaxing we ate and ate!  Skopelos is famed for it's food and as we had no rent to pay so we treated ourselves to some fabulous meals out.  

Keeping cool - Stories in the van with 'Anma
 
Vangelis took us out on his boat and we got to see the lushness of the island from the sea. There are a lot of similarities with Cornwall, the Island has some very dramatic coves, caves and beaches including one of the most spectacular we have seen at Limonari. The people have a certain pride about their Island and are very protective and rightly so, they recently turned down EU funding for an airport, claiming they did not want their Island "going the same way as Skiathos."  
 

A trip on Vangelis's boat

Toward the end of our stay it seemed we might never leave and we might have considered residency with Sula and the Cosmas family if we could be sure we could keep up with them, but we had planned to see Skiathos and draw our own conclusions about this neighboring Island, we said a sad farewell to the Cosmas family and waved goodbye to 'Anma and Carole at the port as we headed off as the advance landing party, we had planned to meet them again the next day and take them to the airport.
 

Leaving Skopelos

Strangest experience
 
Hearing strange clomping noises at 5 in the morning outside the awning, it sounded like there were four of five of them, bandits, thieves, pirates, Steve had been reading too many of the kids books however Kate thoughts drifted to thinking it was robbers in flip flops but she didn't bother to check it out.  When we finally put our heads out of the campervan we saw goats that had climbed down from the hills in search of food, how fantastic and wild!!!
 
Top 3 things
Greek hospitality
The beaches and beautiful sea
Skopelos cuisine
 
Stats
Total miles 4,111

Other pictures we liked

The stunning sea

Zach and 'Anma

Another beach!

Louis and 'Anma