The Lumley's Big Adventure

21 June to 25 June 

Skiathos - Heading back westwards 

We arrived in Skiathos and headed for the campsite at Koukounaries beach - the only campsite open on the island. It was very green, lush and pretty much deserted.  We were amazed to discover that it was the most expensive campsite we had stayed in so far and the owner was not interested in any kind of negotiation!  It was the first time we really thought about getting an apartment or hotel room as it would have cost almost the same amount.  We did check out an alternative campsite on the other side of the Island and this was offered to us for free but alas on inspection the buildings were overgrown, abandoned and still awaiting water to be switched on with the electricity following in a few weeks, the season hadn't begun this side of the island!  We were beginning to struggle with the rising temperatures and huge amounts of mosquitoes.  Not having any mosquito nets we had to choose between getting bitten or staying cool and leaving the doors open.  We also played a new game each evening - 'splat the mozzie' which entailed leaping around the van with the fly swat and rolled up newspapers and collecting a piles of mosquito carcases! 

Sailing to Skiathos

The campsite was a short cycle to the beach, supposedly one of Greece's finest.  It was lovely - long and beautifully sandy, backed by a pine forest.  It had all the water sports facilities you could wish for and when we first arrived it was almost empty.  The children loved the sand and began digging sandcastles in earnest.  We then went for a swim to cool off.  While we were swimming, unnoticed by us, a huge tourist boat arrived and the next thing we knew there were literally hundreds of people and the beach and sea were heaving.   The day after we arrived we went back to the main town to meet 'Anma and Carol who were getting the boat to Skiathos to catch their plane home.  We met them for breakfast in the harbour and all piled in the van to take them to the airport.  It was a sad farewell at the airport and it made us realise that we were now also heading home ourselves.  Skopelos was the furthest east we had planned to travel and we were now on the journey back westwards. We decided to stick it out at the campsite as we didn't plan to stay in Skiathos for long as it was a bit too busy and developed for us - we had been too spoilt with empty beaches and campsites to ourselves for too long!  We discovered Banana beach which had a bit more of a relaxed and funky feel to it than Koukounaries.  It also had the added bonus of being west facing so had the most incredible sunsets. 

The boys got naked in unison with the other nudists further up the beach and enjoyed al fresco showering!  As the sun set they entertained the Greeks in the beach bar by shaking their booty to the pumping music and were rewarded with ice-cream and lots of attention. Not sure they would get the same response in London!   

As the temperatures rose daily we ended up spending hour after hour wallowing in the sea as it was the only way to keep cool.   Zach literally managed to stay in for about 5 hours one day and came out looking like a little prune!  We checked out the weather forecast and discovered that it was cooler on the islands to the west of Greece so decided it was time to move on.  Also if we left now we would have a chance of meeting up with Steve's aunt and uncle who were in Lefkas where they have a sailing boat.  We headed to the port to book a ferry and were put on a reserve list for later that day.  While we awaited news of whether we could leave we took the time to explore the inland.  We found some incredible roads up high above the town.  We got a great view of the airport and its frighteningly short runway.  Apparently the baggage needs careful loading here to ensure the planes can take off safely - we felt very smug in the van at the thought of that!  Even the landing lights start way out to sea as the planes almost touch the top of your head as they land on the outskirts of Skiathos town.  We also took a nose at the Monastery and some fabulous panoramic views before we eventually returned to the port and finally got confirmation that there was room on the ferry for us.

 

Queuing for the ferry

We arrived back in Volos and drove to Sikia Camping where we had stayed a few weeks previously.  This was the first time we had returned anywhere and it felt quite strange but also easy and comforting to be in familiar surroundings.  We found a pitch quite close to the sea and after a fabulous meal in the campsite restaurant we settled down for the night. 

Strangest Experience
The runway at the airport was only separated from the road by a flimsy wire fence.  On this fence was a tatty sign asking cars not to drive on a short section of road when planes are coming in to land!  Have they not heard of anti-terrorism precautions!!!   

Top three things
Sand
Banana beach
Dirt tracks up into the hills

Other pictures we liked this week 

Sunset at Banana Beach

Entertaining all the children on the ferry!

 
11 June to 21 June
 
Pelion and Skopelos
 
We continued to enjoy the remoteness of Kastri until it was time to head off to Skopelos to meet up with 'Anma (Kate's Mum).  Even though we could see Skopelos in the distance there were no ferries from where we were so we had to drive back to Volos.  We boarded the ferry and Louis immediately befriended an elderly Greek couple who fed him crisps and biscuits the entire journey.  The boat stopped off in Skiathos and the scene before us as we stood watching form the deck was incredible.  We were all transfixed as people, goods and vehicles were hurriedly rushed on and off the Ferry as the Customs officials screeched their whistles at the traffic to keep them moving.  Zach exclaimed "its just like 'what people do all day?'", referring to the Richard Scarry books the boys have enjoyed reading all holiday.  Zach was remarkably bang on with his description and we all looked on until the doors were closed and the Ferry headed off once more this time to Skopelos and 'Anma waiting on the quayside.  
 

Driving down to Glysteri Beach

It was great to see 'Anma and her friend Carol.  They have visited Skopelos on a number of occasions so were able to introduce us to some fabulous restaurants, bars, beaches and best of all their friends the Cosma Family.  Sula Cosma, family matriarch, insisted that we park our van next to their taverna on Glysteri beach and camp free of charge.   So our camper van is stationed pretty much on "their" beach, half of it in truth is owned by the Monks who stay way up high in the Monastery.  We have only to stagger a few yards for bacon and eggs in the morning, stuffed peppers, fresh fish, salads so fresh and beautifully herbed each lunchtime and piping hot Skopelos pie, a sweet and creamy filled pastry dusted with icing sugar and fresh fruit delivered to the van most evenings. 
 

Sula's Restaurant

Child care is shared by all including the "YaYa and Papoose" of the restaurant - some of the best greek food on the island being served here.  This is an incredible place to stay, the mornings begin often and strangely with the sound of Microsoft Windows on the PC pumping through the restaurant's sound system, soon followed by Greek Music.  Louis and Steve are usually up first and Louis heads immediately to entertain the family around the breakfast table.  After several cups of thick, black coffee, the days work in the restaurant then commences, from cleaning the beach to preparing the tables and Kitchen.  The family work tirelessly late into the night sometimes with only a handful of customers, the season has yet to begin and the restaurant is vast and includes a museum full of family and Greek history about the Glisteri Beach.  This had once been the ship and boat building port from which some pretty impressive ships were built. It did not take Zach long to find his own evidence of the past climbing on the rocks getting his feet into some sticky tar.  As we slowly slipped into to Greek life on Glisteri beach we began to admire the Cosmas family, in truth we began to feel a little guilty to be watching everything unfold, there was so much to be done and yet nothing was too much trouble.  In the evening the family would drive huge tanks of water from the town on the back of their trucks not just for the restaurant but so the tourists could have showers on the beach.  Sula and her husband Georgeo make a formidable team and to think this all began from Sula selling ice creams on the beach to the tourists.  Even Vangelis her son runs a boat daily from the town to ensure even those without transport can enjoy the environment and the fantastic food and fresh fish that is created in the kitchen.  It  must  have taken a lot ingenuity and hard toil and we told even a little luck, as some of the restaurant was made from timbers washed up and carried up on to the beach, after a shipwreck.  
 

Sula with Louis and Co.

We visited other beaches on the island which were stony but almost deserted and the incredibly green sea was always inviting.  We even bumped into Louis's adoptive grandparents from the ferry who were so excited to see him again and with Carol translating we could even have a conversation with them.  Skopelos town is beautiful - situated on a hill rising up from the small port it is made up of lots of narrow streets with really interesting shops and pretty houses.  We even managed a bit of night out without the boys and went to a bar overlooking the whole town and the harbor.

Skopelos Town at night
 
We took a glass bottom boat on a day trip to Alonnisos with the promise of dolphins.  The dolphins never materialized and there was little to see out of the glass bottom but Alonisos was beautiful.  So close to Skopelos but with a very different character, it seemed more remote with less people and development.  It was very green and looked quite manicured.  We had fresh fish in a little taverna on the harbor and visited some stunning beaches before heading home.
 

Zach in Alonnisos

The temperature rose every day and there was little to do in the heat of the afternoon but dip in and out of the sea or collapse in the shade.  The children hardly complained about the heat they just adored even more swimming and were happy to read stories or watch a film in the afternoons.  When we weren't swimming or relaxing we ate and ate!  Skopelos is famed for it's food and as we had no rent to pay so we treated ourselves to some fabulous meals out.  

Keeping cool - Stories in the van with 'Anma
 
Vangelis took us out on his boat and we got to see the lushness of the island from the sea. There are a lot of similarities with Cornwall, the Island has some very dramatic coves, caves and beaches including one of the most spectacular we have seen at Limonari. The people have a certain pride about their Island and are very protective and rightly so, they recently turned down EU funding for an airport, claiming they did not want their Island "going the same way as Skiathos."  
 

A trip on Vangelis's boat

Toward the end of our stay it seemed we might never leave and we might have considered residency with Sula and the Cosmas family if we could be sure we could keep up with them, but we had planned to see Skiathos and draw our own conclusions about this neighboring Island, we said a sad farewell to the Cosmas family and waved goodbye to 'Anma and Carole at the port as we headed off as the advance landing party, we had planned to meet them again the next day and take them to the airport.
 

Leaving Skopelos

Strangest experience
 
Hearing strange clomping noises at 5 in the morning outside the awning, it sounded like there were four of five of them, bandits, thieves, pirates, Steve had been reading too many of the kids books however Kate thoughts drifted to thinking it was robbers in flip flops but she didn't bother to check it out.  When we finally put our heads out of the campervan we saw goats that had climbed down from the hills in search of food, how fantastic and wild!!!
 
Top 3 things
Greek hospitality
The beaches and beautiful sea
Skopelos cuisine
 
Stats
Total miles 4,111

Other pictures we liked

The stunning sea

Zach and 'Anma

Another beach!

Louis and 'Anma