21 May to 25 May
Amalfi Coast, Pompeii and the boat from Naples to Palermo
The trip along the Amalfi coast was truly breathtaking. The scenery was incredible, towns and villages clinging for dear life to the towering rock faces which make up the coastline and crystal blue waters below. The road itself was however terrifying. Heart stopping hair pin bends, narrow twisting roads where only two vehicles could pass if one was hugging the side of the road. We had numerous near misses with all manner of vehicles we met, all clambering for space along the roads, that literally, in some places appeared to have been stuck on the edge of the rocks. Around most bends we would find ourselves navigating by mirror in order to see if it was clear to proceed or if we were to be confronted by a huge tourist bus, scrapping its way along the coast. (We later found out that large Campervans, unlike ours, are not allowed along these roads and we can certainly see why, it would been hell to keep bumping into those as well). It was an amazing experience but we were in search of somewhere a little more relaxing to stay so we decided to head as far along the coast as possible.
The Amalfi coast road
We ended up at Camping Nettuno, almost at the end of nowhere in the small fishing village of Marina Del Cantone. There was a small beach backed by a few bars and restaurants. The place was really sleepy and had a real charm about it. As well as having a diving centre you could also go on boat trips to the Island of Capri and to Amalfi itself however we stuck to terra firma and drove into to Sorrento for the day, just half an hour away. Like most of the town in the area, Sorrento is built into the cliffs. We meandered through the town along some beautiful cobbled streets which wound their way down to the port. We met bundles of tourists mostly lost and mostly American.
Sorrento
We had some nice beachy days on the rocks and shingle beach near the campsite and walked to the local village for dinner one evening. Our next consideration was how to get to Sicily where we were meeting up with Andrew who was going to be on holiday there. We could drive down along the foot of Italy or take a boat to Catania from Naples. We decided to go to Pompeii first as it was only an hour away and see how our day panned out.
Zach and Louis in Pompeii
The ruins of Pompeii were remarkable. We picked up a guide book which had fabulous overlays which helped us explain to Zach and Louis how Pompeii had looked before the volcano erupted. They spent most the time fascinated by the first page which showed the volcano in the background erupting and the people running, in horror, for their lives. Despite the hoards of tourists, the vastness of the ancient town accommodated us all. It was amazing to walk along streets made from the original stones the Romans laid. It is possible to see how houses were configured and even who lived in them. The ceramics, such as jugs and urns, which have survived look so familiar it really is possible to imagine how people lived here. The most horrifying display was of plastercasts moulded from where people died. You can see the despair in the way their bodies are positioned. The whole town dominated by the shadow of mount Vesuvius which is visible from every part of Pompeii - a constant reminder. We couldn't help wondering why Naples has been built in such a precarious location under the volcano as Pompeii is such a horrific reminder of the power and destruction of it. Scientists say it is a question of 'when' not 'if' Vesuvius will erupt again.
Reading the Pompeii guide book
We walked for over three hours through Pompeii before we headed back to our campervan. Louis shouted "volcano coming" and Zach shouting "run" all the way back to the car park. With thunder rumbling in the distance it wasn't all that funny! It certainly speeded up the process of keeping us all together and getting out, and clearly amused those we passed by. We got back to the van just before the heavens opened.
Vesuvius at dusk
We decided to take our chances and turn up at Naples Port to see if we could find a boat to Sicily. We were greeted by a bustling, pushy city as we forced our way through the traffic to get to the port. The place was heaving with people and we had to be on our guard as beggars and sales people tried to get us to part with our money, legitimately or otherwise!! It was a shock to be somewhere so utterly chaotic, where people were so unhelpful and angry - every ticket booth seemed to have people shouting and screaming at each other.
After what felt like hours we established that we couldn't get a boat to the Aolian Islands, which are close to Sicily and we would have liked to have seen, as it was the wrong day. We then tried to get a boat to Catania but they were all full which left the last cabin to Palermo. We snapped it up and rushed to the ship with little time to spare. The boys were so excited to be on a boat and to have to use a ladder to get into the top bunks. We were almost as excited to have a cabin with freshly made beds. We had dinner in the boat's restaurant before we set sail with the most incredible view of the sun setting over the bay of Naples and the ever present Vesuvius in the background.
The bay of Naples - our dining view
The ship had everything - swimming pool, casino, bars and restaurants, even a late night disco. Unfortunately we didn't bring our dancing gear and instead settled for the children's soft play area, milk and an early night!! We woke up to the stunning sunrise out of our cabin window. As we sailed into Palermo the cliffs glowed orangey-pink in the morning light. The ship docked at 6.30am and we carried, the still sleeping, children down to the campervan.
Approaching Palermo at sunrise
It was a mad dash off the boat and into Palermo and a bit of shock to find rush hour in full swing so early. We carved our way through Palermo and decided to head for Cefalu and by 8.00am all was calm and we were sat on the deserted beach basking in the morning sunshine. What a journey! We left in search of a good campsite and found one just outside Cefalu, with a perfect pitch right opposite a vast swimming pool and smaller children's pool overlooking the sea. It was as near perfect as we could find having already checked first with a trip up the coast with no better alternative.
Campsite in Cefalu
The beach at Cefalu
Top three things this week
The crazy Amalfi coast road
Sunset over the bay of Naples
Cabins on boats - the kids slept so well!
Stats
Distance travelled since UK: 2004 miles, plus a lot of nautical miles, distance from London, if you wanted to join us, the most direct route would mean covering 1,654 miles which would take 26 hours and 5 minutes , without a break!! Time we've spent driving about, 61 hours 16 minutes and a lot of breaks.
Strangest Experiences
Watching the Champions League final, Liverpool v AC Milan with half a dozen Italians, a German and a Canadian, in the local bar/mini market, as people popped past by to pick up a bag of crisps from behind you or in front to select their vegetables, at least you could order a beer.
The ruins at Pompeii with their immense history of culture and creativity, yet a strong feeling of loss and tragedy beneath the ominous backdrop of Mount Vesuvius.
Other photos we liked this week
Zach in Sorrento
Up Pompeii!
Kate and Louis in Pompeii
Our cabin on the boat to Palermo
