6 May - 13 May 2007
Pisa and Elba
This week quickly ran into the next as we found ourselves staying in Laigueglia for a total of five nights. We soon realised that this is one of those places you could so easily get stuck, which would have been perfect had we not planned such a big trip. It was also hard to resist blowing our budget in beachside cafes and bars which all looked so inviting for a coffee, fresh juice, ice cream or beer depending on the time of day. So it was time to stop swanning about and head further south.
We packed up our gear and in no time hit the road again for for Pisa. Having had most of the other campsites to ourselves for the past two weeks we arrived at the Pisa site to discover a mass of campervans/caravans and occupants of all nationalities, shapes and sizes. The site was really close to the leaning tower so we took to our bikes for a family cycle ride into Pisa. The inviting cycle path running outside our campsite turned into manic roads after about 30 metres. Having fought our way through the chaotic traffic we turned off the road towards the tower and were faced with a sea of tourists. We thought we were travelling out of season and it would be a quiet affair but oh no, there they all were, in their droves. It was such hard work on the bikes we had to lock them to the nearest railings and go by foot.
The Leaning Tower of Pisa
The crowds, the tourist tat stalls, the touts selling knock off sunglasses nor the police on huge motorcycles sending them fleeing could distract anyone from the amazing sight of the leaning tower which was truly captivating against the back drop of blue sky. It is just so mesmerising in the piercing bright sunshine illuminating the white stone of the tower and surrounding buildings. Zach was just so amazed that someone could make such a cock-up building something as simple as a tower! Later that evening he drew a picture of it in our scrapbook and when asked what it was he said "it's the leaning tower but I drew it straight"!
Pisa
We went back the following day to climb the tower but children had to be over 8 years old and looking at the size of the gaps between the railings at the top this was actually a bit of a relief! Instead we took a lovely walk around the pretty streets and down to the the river. While there are some other tourist attractions, you can imagine it would be such a sleepy little place if it wasn't for the tower. We stumbled upon a fantastic park for the kids which had an amazing half submerged climbing frame of a ship which they loved. Reflecting on past experiences this made us consider how our travelling and cultural experiences of a country have changed so significantly. Perhaps we should just concentrate on touring children's parks across the world! In many respects we have already started.
After just a couple of nights in Pisa it was time to set off again. Luckily we all thoroughly enjoy beaches so after a flick through the Lonely Planet, and on a bit of a whim, we headed for the island of Elba. The boats leave from the port of Piombino about an hour and twenty minutes away avoiding the highwaymen - toll roads, from Pisa. From there we took a boat to Portaferraio, in Elba. Thanks to a huge soft play area for children on the boat, it was a very relaxing journey.
The island has a population of 30,000, and is located between Corsica and mainland Italy. Napoleon was exiled here in 1814 for a time before he met his Waterloo. This Island is a real gem, fabulous beaches, coves and mountains, we cannot believe we had never considered it as a destination before. Driving around the island is amazing, across the lush fields there are views of the sea in every direction making you loose all sense of your bearings. The roadsides are bursting with poppies and other wild flowers.
After a good look around we finally settled in the most idyllic spot overlooking a small bay and headland in the distance. All our wishes have been granted in this one spot. The sunsets are amazing making writing this all the more pleasurable especially with a bottle of Nastro Azzuro or glass of Gin and tonic, for the ladies, Kate's off the white wine and now on the hard stuff!! Our camp site is really beautiful with tall pine trees and birds that sing us to sleep as well as the morning chorus. In fact they just don't shut up, it so surreal, could it be piped bird song? We might be able to disconnect the speakers!
Sunset across our local beach
We are literally a hop, skip and a jump from the beach, we know this because Zach does it every day and an extra few kilometres up the beach and back if the mood takes him. Being so close makes the whole transition from camp to beach nearly seamless as we to and fro throughout the day as the children's and our needs dictate. As we are so close to the waters edge it felt like the ideal time to pump up the Kayaks and head for open water. Zach and Louis could not wait to jump aboard with Steve for the maiden voyage. As the three of them paddled around the bay the peace and tranquillity was divine. The boys lapped up the experience and listened intently to the waves lashing the boat. Unfortunately it wasn't long before pirate songs rang across the bay and renditions of 'row, row your boat' shattered the air, much to the bemusement of the local Italians! Luckily Zach loves wearing his life jacket and when questioned why he liked it so much he said "because it keeps your clothes dry". The next day was rougher and the boat went over twice sending him headfirst into the water!
Kate and Louis Kayaking
Two days in and beach life is really suiting us. We're even considering not moving for the next three months! As well as the beach there is a playground just a few metres from the campervan which Louis frequently takes himself off to. Also close by is a great restaurant which also has internet access so we have been able to get the blog underway as well as catch-up on e-mail. It also serves up fantastic food, not to mention the well stocked bar, shame we forgot to pack baby sitters!
Uploading the blog in our local internet cafe with Zach supervising!
Tonight the children craved hot cross buns and asked for them in chorus to Steve, so he nipped across to the restaurant and bought them the nearest thing he could find, apple strudel. It went down perfectly and so did the children, out like a light and not a peep until 8.00 am, magic!! Our days are pretty much filled with castle making, watching the many kite and wind surfers, sailing boats and rowing our Kayak around the headland to some caves, just so Zach can check for pirates and treasure. We even had a day of surf action with Zach hurtling beach bound, on a body board (or buggy board, as Zach calls it). With a helpful shove from Steve just at the crest of each wave, he can really get up some speed. His face as he headed for Kate and Louis was a grinning from ear to ear as he gripped on hard to try and stay on. He did have the occasional wipe out but in true surfer style he just wanted to get back on and even stand on the board if he could. "Not just yet eh son". It has been a fantastic week, the Italian charm has certainly wooed us and the people here could not have been more helpful or welcoming.
Top three things this week:
Island/beach Life
Kayaks
'lami (Salami) - as requested by ex-vegetarian Louis!
Distance travelled since UK: 1281 miles
Time spent driving about: 34 hours 34 minutes
Strangest Experience
Loads of prostitutes dressed in fluorescent miniskirts, gaudy jewellery and thick pink lipstick popping out of the maize fields dotted along a rural, but busy, tree-lined road, just outside Pisa. It was only about 1pm!
Where to next:
Still heading south down the west coast of Italy - Rome
Other pictures we liked this week
More ice cream eating in Pisa
View from the van (Elba)
Steve and Zach in the kayak
